Dear All
Just making a post to count for this week and a switch of genre for me. Time to beef up government reinforcements considering all the nasty red communist workers which have been appearing in recent weeks courtesy of my brother. Some timely police reinforcement figures from Ironclad Miniatures. These are technically from the Victorian range but think they fit in to my mix and match approach to the 1930's period ....
Also got a nice police sergeant rider from First Corps.
Added a sidecar option, also from another First Corps model, and have a choice of rider, created from a body swap with IronClad top half. Might do a different Command Officer figure later and can then use the sidecar combination for my command unit if I want. Not sure if the split basing will work but keeps it flexible for the moment.
Finally put a group shot of my police squad for a Bolt Action game. The police will be a militia squad so gone for a full 12 figures based on two sections each led by a pistol armed sergeant (one is in plain clothes). Also I have a 2 figure command squad also pistol armed, with an option to have them mounted or let them use the armoured police squad car. Finally sneaked in an option to field police snipers if I want.
Time to own up ... not actually played a game of Bolt Action yet. I was not especially interested in WW2 gaming but willing to go for the 1930's VBCW as an option. Just itching for the actual game now!
Hope everyone has a great week.
Cheers Jez
A miniature painting challenge created to provide a safe, supportive place for hobbyists to keep in touch during this time of social-distancing and isolation.
Friday, May 22, 2020
JTinQT - Week Eight - VBCW - Police Reinforcements
From JamesM: 15mm British Recce
Hi folks,
As previously promised, I have continued my efforts with the hairy sticks.
My current efforts being to get some recce units finished for my collection.
This submission consists of 3 Battlefront 15mm scale Humber Scout Cars (technically, they should be Humber IV's, but I think they are actually III's), along with 2 Battlefront Humber Light Recce Cars.
This lot are marked up as being from the 51st Highland Division Recce Regiment, 2nd Derbyshire Yeomanry. Decals include representative WD numbers, recognition stars, divisional and AoS markings. Stowage is from a range of sources, with each vehicle being individual.
A couple of things which don't show up very well on the camera is the grass and the weathering. I use Tamiya weathering master for the dust, which looks great in person (in my opinion) but does not show very well in pictures. I suspect there is something technical going on with light reflections. The static grass I use also seems to come up as almost neon in the pictures... and looks a lot more natural in person!
I've still the crew figures to paint for the hatches, so these are not technically totally finished. However there is not much to do for the crew. All my recce vehicles tend to have at least one crew member in the turret, while the command vehicle tends to have two (and two aerials, to help them stand out on the table).
This unit is not currently represented in the late war v4 Flames of War rules, but I'll use them anyway for our home (or online) games.
Work continues on the second batch. Of note is that these are the first vehicles I have not used edge highlighting on in a long time. I've instead gone with a different process of base, wash, drybrush and tidy before doing stowage and wheels and applying a individual wash to those areas. It seems to be quicker but give a similar effect, so I will continue with it for this squadron and see how I go.
Cheers!
As previously promised, I have continued my efforts with the hairy sticks.
My current efforts being to get some recce units finished for my collection.
This submission consists of 3 Battlefront 15mm scale Humber Scout Cars (technically, they should be Humber IV's, but I think they are actually III's), along with 2 Battlefront Humber Light Recce Cars.
This lot are marked up as being from the 51st Highland Division Recce Regiment, 2nd Derbyshire Yeomanry. Decals include representative WD numbers, recognition stars, divisional and AoS markings. Stowage is from a range of sources, with each vehicle being individual.
A couple of things which don't show up very well on the camera is the grass and the weathering. I use Tamiya weathering master for the dust, which looks great in person (in my opinion) but does not show very well in pictures. I suspect there is something technical going on with light reflections. The static grass I use also seems to come up as almost neon in the pictures... and looks a lot more natural in person!
I've still the crew figures to paint for the hatches, so these are not technically totally finished. However there is not much to do for the crew. All my recce vehicles tend to have at least one crew member in the turret, while the command vehicle tends to have two (and two aerials, to help them stand out on the table).
This unit is not currently represented in the late war v4 Flames of War rules, but I'll use them anyway for our home (or online) games.
Work continues on the second batch. Of note is that these are the first vehicles I have not used edge highlighting on in a long time. I've instead gone with a different process of base, wash, drybrush and tidy before doing stowage and wheels and applying a individual wash to those areas. It seems to be quicker but give a similar effect, so I will continue with it for this squadron and see how I go.
Cheers!
Labels:
15mm,
battlefront,
Flames of War,
JamesM,
WW2
Thursday, May 21, 2020
From PeteF Goblin Riders (100 points)
One of last years's what was I thinking? E-Bay purchases was Mantic's complete Vanguard Kickstarter - with extra elves. With all the add-ons this is a mixed bag of goodies from several of Mantic's armies. During quarantine I've already done some elf cavalry and infantry, which I'm going to use for SAGA Age of Magic.
Next out of the box are these gobboes - they'll do for Age of Magic mounted warriors and, if I ever do a Kings of War goblin army I can use them for that too. They're individually based and magnetized for flexibility. I'm not sure what the mounts are - not quite as characterful as the Evil Empire's squigs - but plenty of teeth and menace.
I'm looking forward to trying Age of Magic after quarantine. I've been using Table Top Simulator to stay connected to wargaming friends and had an enjoyable game of Blucher today. A Wargaming club that does a lot of Blucher has uploaded some nice assets and Blucher scenarios.
There's plenty more to paint in the box of Vanguard goodies - I'm using a policy of random drawing from the multiple bags of gray plastic bits - so who knows what'll come out next?
From StuartL - Dutch Village House
Taking a break from painting up batches of infantry and fantasy beasties, I decided to do a spot of terrain this week. As well as a lead mountain and a plastic mountain, I have a growing pile of MDF terrain that I need to reduce a little. MDF is not the best material for terrain, but it is fairly cheap, lightweight, and with a bit of extra effort it can be made to look pretty decent. This particular piece is from Sarissa Precision.
After assembling the building, I painted the walls with a textured paste from Liquitex. This served to give the walls a rougher finish (since MDF can look a bit flat) and sealed the wood so that it didn't drink up all the paint. The walls were painted white, the brickwork in a reddish brown and all of the woodwork in a pale brown. After that everything was washed with watered down brown paint.
Once the wash was dry, I repainted the walls in white, added the blue colours for the shutters and doors and added some different shades of red, brown and grey to the bricks and tiles. All of this work was done using spare foam from some mini trays rather than a brush. By dabbing the paint on, parts of the original colour and the wash were left showing through. Using a square piece of foam, it was easy enough to control where the paint went on the walls and woodwork. For the bricks and tiles I used a torn up piece of foam for more irregular patches.
The vines going up the walls are simply a mix of flock, PVA glue and green paint, allowed to dry and then highlighted with a brighter green.
Due to the surface area to cover, it took a few hours work to get it all done, but it was surprisingly easy to do. Though I'm not an expert on architecture, I guess this building could be used for Napoleonic games right up to modern day scenarios, so I hope to get some use out of it. I have another one of these houses to assemble in the pile, so I may have to do that sometime soon.
For points scoring, the house is roughly 6" by 7" by 5.5", close enough to the standard painting challenge terrain 'cube' to add 20 points to my score, bringing me up to 799.5 points.
After assembling the building, I painted the walls with a textured paste from Liquitex. This served to give the walls a rougher finish (since MDF can look a bit flat) and sealed the wood so that it didn't drink up all the paint. The walls were painted white, the brickwork in a reddish brown and all of the woodwork in a pale brown. After that everything was washed with watered down brown paint.
Once the wash was dry, I repainted the walls in white, added the blue colours for the shutters and doors and added some different shades of red, brown and grey to the bricks and tiles. All of this work was done using spare foam from some mini trays rather than a brush. By dabbing the paint on, parts of the original colour and the wash were left showing through. Using a square piece of foam, it was easy enough to control where the paint went on the walls and woodwork. For the bricks and tiles I used a torn up piece of foam for more irregular patches.
The vines going up the walls are simply a mix of flock, PVA glue and green paint, allowed to dry and then highlighted with a brighter green.
Due to the surface area to cover, it took a few hours work to get it all done, but it was surprisingly easy to do. Though I'm not an expert on architecture, I guess this building could be used for Napoleonic games right up to modern day scenarios, so I hope to get some use out of it. I have another one of these houses to assemble in the pile, so I may have to do that sometime soon.
For points scoring, the house is roughly 6" by 7" by 5.5", close enough to the standard painting challenge terrain 'cube' to add 20 points to my score, bringing me up to 799.5 points.
AdamC: USS Constellation
The
second to last of my US frigates The USS Constellation my personal favorite of the original six (after
the USS Constitution). Constellation was built in Baltimore Maryland as
a 36-or 38-gun frigate as usual her intended rating is a bit confused in the records.
She was one of the first of the new frigates completed and took a staring roll
in the Quasi-War.
The Constellation was commanded during the Quasi-War by Thomas Truxtun a man with experience in the Royal Navy as a common seaman (he was offered a Midshipman’s Warrant) then as a Privateer captain in American Revolution. Constellation fought two single ship action during the Quasi-War. Her first and most famous action was against the L'Insurgente a 36-gun French frigate with a reputation for speed. She had in fact out run Constellation on a previous occasion but on their second encounter the L'Insurgente lost a top mast in a sudden squall allowing the Constellation to close to engage. Constellation was armed with 24-pounder cannons causing to heal over so that she had to surrender the weather gage but her much great weight of metal made short work of the more lightly armed frigate. L’Insurgente was taken into the US Navy as the USS Insurgent and was commanded by Truxtun’s first lieutenant John Rodgers.From TamsinP: 28mm Pulp Era Scatter Terrain
Having "finished" (yes, I know...) my Wars of the Roses army/ies, I decided to take a short break from painting figures and instead to paint up some pulp era scatter terrain bits which had been sitting around for a very long time.
Not bad for a few days' work. the bits are mostly from Ainsty Castings, with a smattering (the bins, oil drums and hydrants) from Fenris Games.
I'm not sure what project I'll be working on next, maybe reinforcements for my 6mm ACW armies.
Iain W 28mm 16 Dux Bellorum skirmishers (80 points)
Here are 16 slingers for my Irish army for Dux Bellorum. Four units of four, I need to come up with a sabot base for them that is 120mm wide but I think that might get delayed, anyway they're done now,six unknown metal figures from the big dark age Ebay splurge (all used up by Dux Bellorum bar one!) and ten plastic Hat figures which are nominaly 28mm but are very slight and the detail is pretty soft,however I'm happy enough using them here and have some more that will be skirmishers in some other Dux Bellorum armies while some might be press ganged into a shieldwall!They do have the benefit of being really cheap, which I like!
Not much to say, various earth colours and they won't last long on the table in this game system, skirmishers in Dux Bellorum are particularly weak which some have called into question, Dan Mersey does say that this is deliberate as in this particular period and area skirmishers were the weak, young and old, so he didn't want them to be used as a skirmish screen, just hang around the edge and kick the enemy when it was down, survival being a really good achievement!
80 points brings me up to 660 which I'm pretty happy with!
All the best Iain
Not much to say, various earth colours and they won't last long on the table in this game system, skirmishers in Dux Bellorum are particularly weak which some have called into question, Dan Mersey does say that this is deliberate as in this particular period and area skirmishers were the weak, young and old, so he didn't want them to be used as a skirmish screen, just hang around the edge and kick the enemy when it was down, survival being a really good achievement!
80 points brings me up to 660 which I'm pretty happy with!
All the best Iain
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